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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.